Barolo: Tradition, Terroir and Precision
January 27th, 2025 | Alexander Mackh, Co-Founder of Amelie
Barolo has long held the title of “King of Wines,” a reputation built on its ability to express power and finesse in equal measure. Made exclusively from Nebbiolo, it is bound by strict production rules—vineyards must be on well-exposed hillsides, typically south-facing, at elevations between 170 and 540 meters. The wine must mature for at least 38 months (18 in oak) and 62 months for a Riserva. While the traditional style blended grapes from multiple terroirs, a shift toward commune-specific and single-vineyard expressions has gained momentum in recent years. On our latest visit, we explored three producers, each approaching Barolo from a distinct perspective: Bartolo Mascarello in Barolo, Cesare Bussolo in La Morra, and Lalù in Monforte d’Alba.
Bartolo Mascarello: The Tradition
Spending time at Bartolo Mascarello is an immersion in the history of Barolo itself. The estate, founded in 1919, covers 5 hectares, with vineyards in Cannubi (1 ha), San Lorenzo (0.25 ha), Rué (0.5 ha), and Rocche dell’Annunziata in La Morra (1.2 ha). The soils are of the Tortonian formation—sandy and calcareous clay—lending structure and balance to the wines. Bartolo Mascarello, who took over from his father in 1945, was among the first to bottle under his own label and never deviated from the philosophy of blending vineyard sites rather than producing single-cru wines. His daughter, Maria Teresa Mascarello, continues this approach with precision, reintroducing the San Lorenzo vineyard into the blend after replanting it in 2015. Tasting both young and aged vintages, the wines stand out for their seamless integration, where tannins and acidity form a natural equilibrium that defines their longevity.
Lalù: Precision Meets Nature
Among the newer names in Barolo, Lalù is a winery to watch. Founded in 2019 by Lara Rocchetti and Luisa Sala, it takes a meticulous and nature-focused approach to winemaking. Their 3.5 hectares, including parcels in Le Coste di Monforte, are farmed organically, with biodiversity at the core of their philosophy—grass is left to grow between rows, and trees have been planted to enhance the vineyard ecosystem. In the cellar, the winemaking is guided by a philosophy of fine extraction, using submerged cap fermentation for 30 days to achieve a delicate, refined style. Their debut vintage already included a Barolo del Comune di Monforte d’Alba, demonstrating their commitment to site expression over power.
Cesare Bussolo: A Benchmark in La Morra
Cesare Bussolo, a native of La Morra, is establishing himself as a reference for the village. His Barolo del Comune di La Morra, first produced in 2017, is sourced from the Boiolo vineyard, where Nebbiolo develops a profile of freshness and elegance. High-density planting—around 8,000 vines per hectare—combined with low yields of approximately 1 kg per plant ensures concentration and balance, a stark contrast to the regional average of around 5,000 vines per hectare. His single-cru Barolos, such as La Serra and Fossati, showcase this meticulous viticulture, where structure and finesse go hand in hand. With a new winery facility in development, Bussolo is refining his vision further, focusing on precision at every stage.
The Many Faces of Barolo
Barolo is a region where different philosophies and terroirs coexist, resulting in a wide range of styles. Whether it is the blended, time-honored approach of Bartolo Mascarello, the sustainability-driven precision of Lalù, or the meticulous vineyard work of Cesare Bussolo, the key ingredient remains the same—attention to detail. Tradition, innovation, or something in between, the essence of Barolo remains unchanged: one of Italy’s most profound wine expressions.