Montalcino - More than just Brunello
February 18th, 2025 | Alexander Mackh, Co-Founder of Amelie
Montalcino has always been more than just a wine region to me. The rolling hills, the warmth of the people, the deep culinary traditions, and the proximity to Siena make it an irresistible place. But beyond its charm, Montalcino is defined by precision—both in its winemaking and its commitment to tradition.
When Brunello di Montalcino was officially recognized as a DOC in 1966, only a handful of producers were making it. Today, over 200 wineries uphold the same rigorous standards, with one unshakable rule: every bottle must be 100% Sangiovese. No blends, no shortcuts. By law, Brunello must age for at least five years before release, with a minimum of two in oak; Riserva versions require an extra year. This discipline is what makes Brunello stand apart—and why I keep returning to Montalcino.
However, some of the most revered wines from this region don’t even carry the Brunello name. Gianfranco Soldera famously left the Consorzio in 2006, yet his wines remain among the most sought-after in the world. But Montalcino cannot be defined by a single producer, nor even by the legendary Biondi-Santi family, who laid the foundation for Brunello. Instead, the region’s identity is shaped by its diverse terroir and the philosophies of its winemakers.
The Influence of Place
Montalcino’s landscape is anything but uniform. Vineyards range from 120 to over 600 meters in altitude, influencing ripeness, acidity, and structure. The northeast, home to producers like Cerbaiona and Il Marroneto, is characterized by galestro, marl, and limestone soils, yielding wines of finesse, aromatic lift, and firm acidity. In contrast, the western vineyards of Soldera (Case Basse) sit on clay-limestone soils, producing structured, perfumed wines built for longevity.
Further southeast, Stella di Campalto cultivates vines on an ancient riverbed composed of quartz and sandstone. This unique terroir contributes to the wines’ silky textures, mineral depth, and elegant complexity. Meanwhile, the central and western zones, where Salvioni and Biondi-Santi are based, feature a mix of clay, limestone, and galestro, producing Brunellos that balance power with precision.
Each of these subregions reinforces a fundamental truth: Montalcino is as much defined by place as it is by the vision of those who craft its wines.
Philosophy in Practice
A key decision for any Montalcino winemaker is whether to produce single-vineyard Brunellos or blend across different parcels. At Stella di Campalto, vineyards sit between 150 and 250 meters above sea level. Campalto takes a meticulous approach, vinifying and bottling distinct Brunellos from different parcels to highlight the individuality of each site. Her wines are a testament to the purity of single-vineyard expressions.
In contrast, Cerbaiona, with vineyards reaching around 400 meters, follows a more traditional philosophy. Instead of isolating individual parcels, the estate blends grapes from across their property to create a harmonious, estate-wide Brunello. This approach reflects the belief that balance comes from the sum of the whole rather than the singularity of a site. Both philosophies offer compelling interpretations of Montalcino’s terroir, proving that there is no single formula for greatness in Brunello.
The Many Faces of Montalcino
Montalcino is not a monolith. It is a place where tradition and innovation exist side by side, where terroir shapes identity, and where winemakers have the freedom to express their own philosophies. Whether through the blended elegance of Cerbaiona or the precise site expressions of Stella di Campalto, each bottle tells a story—one deeply rooted in place, people, and passion. And that, ultimately, is what makes Montalcino so irresistible.